How to Photograph Fireworks


Fireworks

[NOTE: This post is from 2011. To read the updated post from 2012 click here]

With the 4th of July just around the corner, I thought I’d share some tips on how to shoot fireworks.

This is the time to shoot in manual mode. Most people assume that because they’re shooting at night they’ll need a high ISO, flash and a wide aperture. The opposite is true; you’re not exposing for the night sky, you’re exposing for very bright sources of light.

To begin, set your ISO to 100. The last thing you want is digital noise in the dark sky.

Next, set your aperture to a narrow setting; something between f/8 and f/16 to get a wide depth of field.

Your shutter speed will vary but something around 3-to-4 seconds is a safe bet. Or you can use “bulb” mode where the shutter remains open for as long as you hold the shutter button down. You’ll have to play with the timing. Do you fire the shutter when the rocket fires? Or maybe when it’s half-way up the sky? Or maybe as it explodes and another rocket is coming up. Experiment and see what you get.

With such long exposures a tripod is necessary and if you have one, a shutter release cable is very helpful.

Your lens should go to infinity on its own, but if you find your lens is having trouble finding a focus area, switch it to manual focus and evaluate the image on your LCD by zooming in tight. Do not rely on the image on that 3-inch screen to tell you if it’s in focus. At roughly 3-inches square your image may look sharp until you open it up on your 15 or 27 inch monitor.

If your LCD blinks at you it means those areas are over exposed. Don’t freak out. Ask yourself if it’s too overexposed. Remember, fireworks are very bright so you’d expect to get some overexposure. There’s not much detail in there anyway (imagine shooting a light bulb). Just look at the areas that are blinking and ask yourself if it’s acceptable. Or check your histogram. If the peaks are crowding too far to the right side, you’re blowing out highlights. Increase your shutter speed to get them back.

Typically this is my set-up: f/11, ISO 100, 4 seconds. That’s what I’ll start with. The only thing I’ll vary is the shutter speed.

There will be some trial and error as you find your settings. But don’t get so caught up in your camera that you forget to enjoy the show. So try to have some fun!

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Canon Adds Color to the Rebel T3


Red Canon Rebel T3

Most DSLRs come in one color: black. Pentax offers a few varieties and now Canon is jumping in by offering the Rebel T3 in three different colors: Metallic Gray, Brown and Red (in addition to black).

The colors are only available at the Canon online store. The company is also offering a rebate up to $200 on select T3 kits.

Take A Ride Through the B&H Conveyor System


I found this last week but forgot to post it and sadly, forgot the source. Vimeo user Lense posted this video of what the photography products you order from B&H go through before they reach your happy little hands. B&H, in New York City, is a photographer’s mecca and I hope to make my pilgrimage there one day and see this cool little system in action for myself.

Google Launches Search by Image


You know you can search for images on Google. You can, for example, type in “red Ferrari” in the search box, but click on images to find pictures of red Ferraris instead of links. Well, now you can search by using images. The video above explains it best. Just upload your image and Google will find similar images.

I wonder what implications this has for photographers. Can you use it as a reverse image look-up to see if your image is being used somewhere similar to Tin-Eye or other services I wrote about here. I might be over-thinking it. What do you think? How would you use this feature?